I spent much of my childhood and teenage years in Spain, having emigrated from Argentina at just six years old. Marbella was the first Spanish city I called home, and I absolutely loved it. It had warm weather, beautiful beaches, and plenty of opportunities to play outdoors with other kids.
Moving from Marbella to the Mediterranean town of Denia in my teenage years wouldn’t have seemed like a big jump, as they both boast similar conditions. However, in between those two coastal spots, I spent a few years—from eight until 12, to be precise—in the northern pristine town of Oviedo.
Northern Spain is quite different from the southern holiday hubs or the island resorts of Mallorca and Tenerife. For one, the north is much cooler, greener, and culturally reserved, with locals still strongly attached to their traditions. That’s why Oviedo, while lesser-known than most regional capitals, holds such captivating charm.
Oviedo’s public spaces are well-maintained, practically litter-free, and full of unexpected historical landmarks. One such sight is the imposing Cathedral of San Salvador, regarded as one of Spain’s most important Christian pilgrimage sites, even before Santiago de Compostela rose to prominence. It’s one of the traditional stops for pilgrims taking the Camino Primitivo, the oldest known route of the Camino de Santiago.
Due to its typically rainier weather, Oviedo is very green, with parks everywhere and a key central park named Campo de San Francisco. This park is beloved by locals for casual strolls and coffee meetups.
The capital of Asturias is also a food lover’s dream, with hearty cuisine served in cosy, welcoming spots ideal for warming up after a hike—like to the nearby Monte Naranco, where you can spot pre-Romanesque architecture while overlooking the town, or through the natural park of Las Ubiñas-La Mesa.
The best-known dish in the region, Fabada, is a hearty bean stew (fabes) with meat, sausage, and morcilla. Despite being served in extremely filling, generous portions, it’s often followed by a cachopo—a large breaded veal foldover filled with cheese and ham. Tierra Astur restaurant has been known for years to serve a great cachopo.
While the South of Spain is known as a prolific beer destination for European travellers, Asturias is centred around cider culture. Oviedo’s Calle Gascona is regarded as the “Boulevard of Cider,” where no-frills, tavern-style sidrerías offer authentic sidra (cider), poured from a height in what’s locally known as the escanciado method.
Restaurants such as Casa Fermín, Casa Lobato, and Del Arco are some of the top eateries in town for sampling regional fare. Meanwhile, NM by Nacho Manzano prides itself on upscale, modern Asturian cuisine with meticulous attention to detail.
As an agricultural region, Asturias produces some of the best homegrown products in the country, including a range of more than 40 types of cheese—most famously Cabrales, a powerful blue-veined variety protected by DOP status—high-quality beef raised in mountain pastures, and artisan conserves made from local apples, pears, and wild berries.
Local bakeries and desserts provide another motivation to explore the Old Town. Asturian treats are rustic in appearance but remarkable in flavour. The most iconic is the carbayón, a rich almond-filled puff pastry glazed with syrup, typically found at Camilo de Blas in Oviedo. Another local favourite is the moscovita, a delicate almond biscuit coated in chocolate, originally from the historic Rialto bakery.
Restaurants often offer rich, homemade options such as a local, creamier version of rice pudding, casadielles (a type of deep-fried pastry roll filled with a mixture of walnuts, sugar, and aniseed), and frixuelos—a crepes-style dish typically filled with sugar, jam, or cream and rolled up.
The Old Town (Casco Histórico) is perfect for a walking holiday, with the Cathedral and Calle Uría providing an urban hustle and bustle atmosphere. There are also plenty of quieter, charming places slightly away from the main streets to explore, making Oviedo an authentic and rewarding destination in northern Spain.
https://www.express.co.uk/travel/articles/2113922/spanish-town-cleanest-walkable-uncrowded
